There are two types of units that car manufacturers often provide, PSI and kPa.
The upcoming 2022 Honda Civic, known as the FE-generation Civic, has been spotted in China.
Honda Malaysia today announced that their 2020 Honda Civic has sold more than 2,900 units nationwide,
Sad news for potentials sedan buyers in Japan, as Honda will be discontinuing the Civic Sedan and City
The latest vehicle to be used by our police force is the Honda Civic FC.In escort livery.
Hot on the heels of the unveiling of the 11th-generation Honda Civic sedan, it looks like its sibling
Civic, the second-generation Honda Civic adopted styling cues from the Honda Accord.
If you havent noticed, the Honda Civic tends to follow a pattern whereby a radical model is superseded
Soon wrong-doers in Shah Alam will find an angry Honda Civic police car breathing down their necks, as
While others have opted for live YouTube and Facebook streams, the 11th generation Honda Civic made its
Honda unveiled the facelifted 2020 Honda Civic Type R at the opening of the Tokyo Auto Salon.
Following yesterday’s leak of the new generation 2022 Honda Civic Hatchback, we now have images
After much anticipation, the 2020 Honda Civic facelift is now officially on sale.
Honda Civic in a Twitch livestream.Based on what we’ve seen so far, it looks lit and Civic stans
Back in 2020, we reported that Honda Malaysia will be supplying the Honda Civic 1.8 S as police cars,
Indonesians recently welcomed the 2021 Honda Civic Type R (FK8) facelift, coming with a host of visual
previously reported that the Royal Malaysia Force (PDRM) has put in an order of 425 units of the 2020 Honda
The production version of the 2022 Honda Civic FE Sedan made its global debut a couple of weeks ago,
For similar money, you can opt for the 2020 Honda Civic facelift or the 2020 Toyota Corolla Altis with
Honda Malaysia today previewed the new Honda Civic ahead of its official launch later this year.As this
Warm weather, 40 psi in the tires, @SwervedriverUK on the stereo, mileage is waaaay up! Thanks @Honda civic hybrid! http://t.co/oMq79VnDNv
Can u believe honda civic with H22a with hks turbo. 380HP on 9.5 psi http://t.co/AznebPpk
To the frat boy snapback fuckboy with the RVCA Alpha Psi Rho Frat Decal on the back of your all-black shady as fuck Honda civic: Fuck you for not letting me merge right you stupid fuck I hope you fail out of college and your fraternity discharges you Asshole https://t.co/2zxKqaJDi3
My car was driving funny (no Plum jokes) and come to find out, one tire had 50 PSI in it! I drive a Honda Civic not a big rig
http://bit.ly/bvL8tg honda civic turbo 15 PSI with 3.15 WTF!!! 8th Generation Honda Civic Forum ;P
Honda Civic B16 Turbo at 1 bar - 14 psi Can You Say Boost. 2014 SHP Entertainment, Inc. http://t.co/sFmEPnoMlz
To add 500 hp to your car easy just get cold air blinker fluid with a 20 psi dipstick, your Honda Civic will blast past these lambos
So I bumped into a Honda Civic..he said he's rrunning 28 psi!! Shit that's fuck fast!
@CNGnow I don't understand your fun fact. The Honda Civic CNG stores methane at 3600 psi.
15 PSI with 3.15 WTF!!! – 8th Generation Honda Civic Forum http://dlvr.it/1Tqdg #football #race #wrx #nascar #speed
What is the maximum PSI of my 2012 Honda Civic? All my tires are at 45. Is that a good idea? No. I can’t think of any passenger car that requires a PSI of 45 on its tires. Honda will have placed a sticker on your driver’s door jamb that gives the recommended pressures for your Civic’s tires. It’s most likely somewhere between 30 and 35psi. If you cannot find that sticker, then look in your owner’s manual. The information is in there as well. If you threw that away or didn’t get one, call your Honda dealer service department or a local tire shop and ask them what the proper tire pressure is for your car. That sticker will look something like this: The pressure printed on the sidewall of the tire is the Maximum tire pressure for that particular tire, not the recommended pressure. Look to the manufacturer of your car for the recommended pressure.
Okay, so the Honda civic touring from 2015 features the 1.5l 4 cylinder engine which is ,already ,turbocharged. Now the amazing thing about modern turbo charged engines (the “turbo” in which is really installed for emissions purposes rather than performance) is that the boost pressure is regulated by a computer, so a simple process know as a reflash or a “chip” can reprogram the car’s engine control unit to produce more boost from the turbo charger. Just research 1.5l 4 cylinder honda civic “tunes”, “reflashes”, or a “stage one” anything and you can find out more about the types of gains you might see. I reflashed the ECU on the Audi in my profile photo from stock boost of 7–8 psi to around 18 with a tune from APR and it became a whole new car. Have fun and be careful!
As others have pointed out, this question leaves so much to interpretation. So I'll answer it with a slight modification: What single, user-serviceable component of a car has the biggest impact on fuel economy ,when it goes bad,? See what I did? User serviceable means you don't really, absolutely, need a trained mechanic to help you service (fix) it. This eliminates “deep" stuff like piston rings. That said, I've got two notorious candidates: Spark Plug (ignition coil) Mass Air Flow sensor 1) A bad spark plug gives you a misfire. An engine misfire is easy to detect: your car struggles to accelerate (feels weak), you get a lot of vibration (more like a shudder), and ,your fuel consumption goes through the roof! Now, to be clear, a “bad" spark plug could be either the plug itself has died (very rare) or the ,ignition coil, attached to it has given up. In my experience, it is almost always the ignition coil. One main cause of a dead ignition coil is engine heat (I saw this a lot in my 2007 Honda Civic). Hence, if your car overheats, chances are that you'll be needing to replace an ignition coil (or two) soon after. All in all, a problem with getting a spark in any cylinder gives you an engine misfire. And a misfire is the perfect glutton for fuel tank drain. Your engine staggers because it's getting “high” on drinking your fuel. 2) Next comes the MAF sensor. Accurate measurement of how much air your engine is getting is critical to fuel consumption. Your vehicle computer needs this air flow information to calculate how much fuel it should inject for optimal combustion. A bad (usually ,dirty,) MAF sensor, ,throws this calculation out of balance. Depending on the working technology behind your your vehicles MAF sensor, the typical effect of a fault is increased fuel injection. The computer will overestimate how much air is coming in, and then inject more than enough fuel to match the air. But its calculation is wrong. The engine gets far more fuel than it actually needs. It'll simply burn the amount it can burn and then let the rest go out as exhaust. What you get is your fuel tank draining out the tailpipe (as black smoke)! Here's a typical Toyota MAF sensor: Source: Samarins.com. The impact on fuel economy when either of these components goes bad can be as much as a DOUBLING of your fuel consumption. This is from experience. You can fix them all by yourself without breaking the bank. A replacement ignition coil isn't so expensive. However a MAF sensor can be quite costly. Thankfully, you DON'T have to replace your faulty MAF sensor, because the problem is typically dirt accumulation inside the sensor. This dirt can be easily cleaned off using a ,mass air flow sensor cleaner, (it comes in a spray can very similar to a carb/choke cleaner). But please be warned: ,do not clean your MAF with a carb/choke cleaner,. You'd kill it. The spray can is clearly labelled “mass air flow sensor cleaner", or a marketing variation of that. So these are my two main fuel economy killers, from a user-serviceable point of view. A few others: Underinflated tyres (>5 psi or more) Really bad wheel bearings (louder than your radio at any speed >50 kph) Stuck brake caliper (brake pad in constant contact with brake disc / rotor while driving) Enjoy the ride.
There are four reasons why most late model vehicles use larger rims and lower profile tires. On the road performance: Vehicles so equiped with large rims - 18″ and larger will usually have very low profile tires, in the order of 45 series to 30 series. Low profile tire means the radial cords are much shorter compared with 70 series and that translated to much more precise corning control as the short sidewall radial cords will deflect less to make turns. All the later models of high performance cars are equiped with those tires. On tracks they can corner with over 1.10 g forces compared to .78g for the older 70 and even 60 series tires. Since tire body deflection is much less, less heat is generated so the top useable speed is higher as well. In 2022, The F1 cars will change from 13″ rims to 18″ for that reason. A lot of those high-end cars are capable of greater than 180 mph as some people considered them as factory authorized legal race cars. The sidewall of Bugatti Chiron is made from carbon fiber material and heavily strengthened and custom made by Michelin for about $10,000 per tire. A far cry from the average polyester cord radial tires. Fuel saving: The reduction in the radial cord length due to lower aspect ratio tires means the air volume is also lower. To carry the same weight inflation must be increased. The old high profiles have inflation pressures around 30 to 35 psi, but the new low profile tires must be inflated to 47 to 50 psi, especially on EVs due to their battery weight. That translated to better fuel mileage, usually no more than 2% or so. Larger rims mean they can install larger rotors for better braking performance. As more cars are turbo-charged with horsepower over 700 and as much as 1500, the braking power must increase as well. Larger rotors and special carbon-fiber ceramic rotors - at $8000 option are appearing more frequently. You will find16.5″ rotors on Porsches that weight less than 4000 lbs. Even Camrys and Corollas are coming up with larger rotors for cooling and improved brake performance. Uniformity: Since rims that comes with those tires are either forged - high end units or casted aluminum alloy. They are machined so the out-of-round specification is very much better than stamped steel rims. Since the radial cords are much shorter, it is much easier to have tires being more uniformly round. That translated to better NVH numbers - Noise, vibration and harshness. Those number are more important as speed goes up. I am not too crazy on these larger rims and extreme low profile tires as I value the quality of my ride and our roads are not condusive for performance driving, especially the number of pot holes keep growing faster than the government can repair them. Part of the change may be progress as even 2019 Honda Civic type R used 245/30R20 as original equipment. For others It may be just visual appeal. For me 0 to 60 mph under 6 seconds is more than sporting unless you enjoying paying traffic fines. My take away is choose wisely, any low profile tire with aspect ratio smaller than 40% , you are choosing high speed handling and performance over utility and durability. Your gain may never be realized as few cars are driven to that extreme on a daily basis. May be I am getting too old for ultra high performance stuff. Sidewall distortion on turns Shorter radial cords by using lower aspect ratio reduce heat generation thus improve “G” forces. 25 aspect ratio tires mounted on car and damages from poorly maintained roads or hitting curbs.
^ InsideEVs ~~~~ Q. What is the furthest someone can go in a Tesla Model 3? A. I assume this means on one charge. I will give two answers: Most people, normal careful driving Hypermiling These answers apply to my 2018 Tesla Model 3. Range has been considerably increased by Tesla—and price reduced. See ,Harsimran Singh’,s comment below for the data on that ~~~~ “Most people”—310 miles A bit more careful than most people—350 miles. 310 miles is the rated range for a reason. IMO, that is what most people will get with reasonably careful driving in typical conditions with a mix of city and highway driving. 350 miles is a good average figure for me. If you are TRYING to get great mileage… …the range of possibility I have seen is 350–700 miles in a Model 3 LR. To get 350 is easy. To get 700 is damn near impossible—that is hypermiling only. My battery pack is 310 miles rated range…and I can get to 350 easily in good weather, not doing more than 65 MPH too often. In fact, I get 350 just with normal driving to work and back. DETAILS 1. MOST PEOPLE Most people who are just living their lives—not doing anything unusual—will get somewhere near rated range—310 miles. That is… …IF they have a mix of driving—not all highway, AND they are being careful not accelerate or decelerate too much, not slamming on the brakes, and not going over 65 MPH too often. I burn 200 Wh/mile on a nice day—not using much heat or A/C. That equates to *375* miles. And that is very easy for me to do with careful driving to work and back and grocery shopping (I-25 and I-70 in Metro Denver, mostly on Autopilot). Nothing unusual there. My average Wh/mile right now for my last 770 miles is 212 Wh/mile (winter weather—NOV & DEC), and that equates to *354* miles, with no special conditions—just driving carefully. But that does not include any high speed road trips in bad weather (not doing that right now, due to COVID). Adding in a large percentage of steady high speeds (staying over 65) on the highway with heater on would give something more like 265–280 Wh/mile for me—and that equates to *283–268* miles. 2. HYPERMILING If you mean HYPERMILING, *700* miles has been claimed (in blogs—unconfirmed), and there are well-substantiated 670 (Model S) and 606 mile runs (Model 3). The 606 mile (Denver) and 700 mile run (Miami) were in the Model 3 LR, driven on regular roads with stop signs, so not optimal hypermiling. The 606 mile run took 32 hours of continuous driving and they achieved 110 Wh/mile. Tesla Model 3 drives 606 miles on a single charge in hypermiling record Italian Tesla drivers set distance record after driving Model S 670 miles on a single charge Hypermiling, you could get 85 MPG in a 1990 Honda Civic with an 11.9 gallon tank, and that equates to 1011 miles. But no one is going to want to do hypermiling. Here’s why: To hypermile, you are going to have to: —Select the best speed for the car and do your best to stay at that speed for more than a day without stopping (I have read that speed is around 25–35 MPH for a Tesla Model 3, and around 42 MPH for a Honda Civic) —Try not to use the brakes at all —Select a route where you can maintain near constant speed—like a racetrack, or area with very few cars —Use no heater or AC at all —Empty the car of everything but the drivers (you’ll generally need two because you cannot stop, and not many people can safely drive for 30+ hours with no rest —Pump up the tires to max pressure—like 45 PSI for a Model 3 —If driving a Model 3, it’s best if you have 18″ wheels with aero covers o
Recommended tire PSI is specific to the year, make and model of automobile. You will find the recommended tire PSI posted on the information sticker found on the door frame of your Civic.
Yes, and some are. There are several possibilities. One, many fleet vehicles operate on natural gas. This is common for buses in locations that have refueling equipment capable of compressing a natural gas supply for storage in the vehicle’s tanks. Two, the Honda Civic GX was a vehicle sold to consumers in the US that operated on natural gas. The powertrain was a conventional internal-combustion engine and transmission, modified to use natural gas instead of a liquid fuel. The Civic GX ran on compressed natural gas (CNG) stored in a pressure tank up to 3600 PSI. This tank stored an energy equivalent of 8 gallons of gas, enough to transport the car up to about 250 miles between refueling stops. The Honda Civic GX was discontinued in 2015, but some may still be available on the used car market. Currently there is no other natural gas powered car available to the public from a major automaker. CNG is available from commercial pump operators in most metropolitan areas. You could also purchase a home refueling kit that would compress natural gas from a residential supply and refill the tank while parked. The third way to power a vehicle with natural gas, indirectly, is to use electricity generated from natural gas sources and drive a battery-electric powered vehicle. Currently there are many to choose from on the market, from Tesla and other sources. Natural gas has an advantage over other fossil fuels in that it is inexpensive and abundant in some markets, has reduced emissions upon combustion (particulate matter and carbon emissions), and is easy to distribute by pipeline. Its major disadvantage over other fuels is that it must be compressed to be stored, requiring specially-constructed storage tanks and an additional energy supply to compress the gas. Also, natural gas leaks can be dangerous, difficult to detect, and contribute to global warming as a greenhouse gas.
The most boost I’ve seen being run on cars were either between a Honda Civic and a Subaru STi, both cars were pushing 45+ psi each and both were overhead camshaft motors. I don’t know if any pushrod motors running this amount but I wouldn’t be surprised if they are out there.
I brought a 1991 Honda Civic from my company, which was a retired tech’s car driven by a tech I knew well. It had 170,000 miles on it, and I knew it had a new timing belt and decent tires. I drove the hell out of it for almost 2 years, putting about 100 miles a day on it. I had a fiasco with a local mechanic trying to get the AC fixed, but after driving pickups for the last 12 years, I fell in love with its sporty handling, visibility, and generally thrifty and reliable nature. I could do most of the work on it myself, and parts were plentiful and cheap. By 223,000, I was at a crossroads with it though. It developed a bad cylinder from a broken spark plug electrode, and the clutch was worn out, and a CV axle was getting noisy. I thought of starting over, but I decided to check the local junkyard for a good used motor. I walked away with a D15B2 motor with 127,000 miles on it with 180 PSI compression, and a 5 speed transmission to replace the old D15B1 motor with a 4 speed. My neighbor was a mechanic who worked out of his home shop, and offered me use of it for a week in the dead of winter. I got together a few more parts, a Centerforce Clutch for $250, a rebuilt CV axle for $69, and a new alternator and some other odds and ends like brake pads and so on. It was practically plug and play, but when it got warmer I had to replace a $120 radiator, but until I got new car fever, my rejuvenated beater Civic took me another 40,000 miles, and got as much as 44 mpg. I replaced it a year and a half later with a brand new Accord, but I sold the old Civic to a friend for $500 to get him out of a horrible Ford EXP. He drove it another 125,000 miles and sold it a couple years ago for $500.
Just as Chad asked, it all depends on if the pressure was checked cold. Temperature also plays a big role in how the pressure in a tire reads. If you want to get a true read on the tires, let the vehicle sit outside for a little while, then check it. Some shops do tend to set the pressure a little higher than normal. I know I personally prefer my tires on my Honda Civic set at 35psi instead of the recommended 32psi.
Yes, Honda Civic has Airbags, which are: 2020 Honda Civic 1.5TC, 2020 Honda Civic 1.5TC Premium, 2020 Honda Civic 1.8S, 2018 Honda Civic 1.8S, 2018 Honda Civic 1.5TC, 2018 Honda Civic 1.5TC Premium.
No, Honda Civic isn't available in Steering Adjustment Electric.
Yes, Honda Civic has Instrument Cluster, which are: 2020 Honda Civic 1.5TC, 2020 Honda Civic 1.5TC Premium, 2020 Honda Civic 1.8S, 2018 Honda Civic 1.8S, 2018 Honda Civic 1.5TC, 2018 Honda Civic 1.5TC Premium.